What fabric works for sublimation? Polyester content explained
Sublimation ink turns into a gas under heat and bonds with polyester fibers. It doesn’t bond with cotton. That one fact explains most faded first prints: the design looked fine coming off the press, then washed out because the blank wasn’t polyester.
How much polyester do you need?
- 100% polyester gives the brightest colors and holds up best in the wash.
- High-polyester blends work, but colors look softer and more “vintage” because the cotton part doesn’t hold the ink. Many crafters treat 65% polyester as a working minimum.
- 50/50 and lower gives a faded look that fades further in the wash.
- 100% cotton isn’t suitable for direct sublimation; crafters use a transfer product made for cotton instead.
Color matters too
Sublimation ink is transparent and there’s no white ink. It shows best on white or very light blanks; on dark fabric the design largely disappears.
What about mugs and tumblers?
Hard blanks such as mugs and tumblers carry a polyester coating that does the same job. On fabric, the polyester has to be in the fibers themselves.
How to check a blank
- Read the label or the product listing for the exact percentage. It’s the only reliable source for the ratio.
- No label? Try the water drop and the crush test from the cotton vs. polyester guide.
- Still unsure, and it’s a scrap? A burn test shows whether there’s synthetic fiber in it.
- Or photograph it with Fabric Identifier, which estimates whether a blank is likely polyester, cotton or a blend. It’s handy for thrifted blanks and unlabeled bundles; treat it as a first check, not a percentage.
Pressing tips
- Use the time and temperature from the blank’s maker; settings vary with the fabric and the press.
- Lint-roll and pre-press the blank to remove moisture and loose fibers.
- Use protective paper so ink doesn’t ghost onto the press or the back of the shirt.
- Polyester can scorch or yellow if the press is too hot, so test on a scrap first.